Helpful Auto Hints

[minuteman]

IF you have the tool.........a good way to find a missing cylinder is to use an 'Induction Timing Light'. That's one that connects to the battery, and has one more lead with a pickup sensor mounted inside a loose fitting clamp. You don't have to disconnect anything related to your engine. Just clip the sensor to a plug wire (with the car running). Pull the trigger like normal, and watch the light's flashing. Don't look into it, of course. : Point it at something. Do that to each plug wire, and you'll be able to see if it skips a beat, and how bad. Most importantly........which one(s).

Hope it works for anyone out there. I figure this arena of the forums would also be a good place to help with suggestions we've all come across. Even if no one is actually needing help at the moment. I see this is the first post.

So let's get 'er rolling!
:iroc:

[minuteman]

I use this technique to also visually see how my coil packs are firing since they go through the plug wires.

:smileinbox:

[minuteman]

Here's a goody. I used to have an Olds. Royal Brougham (i.e. Delta 88). Around that same year actually. I discovered that on many GMs there is a wide strip of weather stripping at the rear of the engine compartment that meet up with the hood when closed. I also discovered that on an extremely hot day that same strip will lift right up (no clips, or anything) to provide a natural, built-in, hood scoop (vent). It works great to help vent the heat out of the engine bay.

This works as long as the hood isn't the kind that comes back down over that area to block it off. You'll be able to tell just by looking. On my car I was able to see right into the engine bay from the driver's seat. Although it was a small gap, it spanned the entire width of the hood. That's what made the difference.

You take your own risk with rainy days. If you don't want to peel it all the way off....you can fold it halfway across. This allows you to customize it to better suit your needs while possibly keeping the weather off of certain areas. Like the alternator. Like I said though. It's perfect for a hot day......with no rain. Afterwards it can be put right back into place. No altering of the vehicle by cutting holes for an actual scoop.

You should be able to notice the difference during a nice longer drive. Small trip, or something. It worked great for me.

:icon_thumright:

[minuteman]

Off of my throttle body there are four vacuum lines that have a rubber seat by which they connect to the throttle body. The rubber is so far beyond brittle that the lines were actually just bouncing around in there forming a Butt McNasty air leak. I used a silicone type adhesive that was also a sealant. It's call 'Seal-All'. The blue gasket stuff should work too. The object is to be gas & oil resistant, yet remain flexible. 'Goop' may harden which would make removal just that much more difficult.

NOTE:.........Make sure it has had enough time to dry BEFORE you start the car so that all fumes are GONE. Just a precaution. The fumes from practically all silicons are flammable. It's also a good idea so that your new seal doesn't turn into a plugged line. The vacuum may try to suck it in while it's still wet.

Anywho....it's worked great for me. Car worked a lot better after that sucker was sealed up. And, if I need to remove it........it's still soft enough to do just that.



You can see from this pic what I'm talking about. Albeit this is not my car....you get the picture. The vacuum lines are attached towards the top part of the throttle body in this pic. Mine looks almost exactly like it. I put the sealant between the black part, and the aluminum body. Especially between EACH line. That way they each had their own seal. You'll see if you ever have to disconnect these lines. Basically I created a gasket with the sealant. Just remember to not cover any holes at the end of the line, nor in the throttle's housing.

That's what I did to ensure the individual vacuum connections. A quick way (that may be just as good) would be to smear a coating of the silicone on top while it is still connected like in the picture. Remember to go all the way around the connection to form a good seal, wrapping it in a sense.

If your car is anywhere near as old as mine.....'88.....it is probably leaking in the same place. This is a low cost way to fix it. In fact.........being that I already had the Seal-All.....it was free.

:headbang:

[Sir William]

Good tip minuteman. On today's computer controlled cars, ANY air (vacuum) leak after the mass air meter is BAD as it will make your motor go lean and potentially damage things. If you hear your motor pinging a lot especially on hills, etc. Chances are it's going lean from an extra air leak. The ECU can only do so much to compensate.

I could go on and on about this stuff. I'm a computer and car geek.

[minuteman]

Here's another goody in that same general area. Scroll back up, and look for the IAC Sensor. It is more than just a sensor. Okay.....truth is it's NOT a sensor at all. So let's stop calling it one. It's a control valve (Idle Air Control) that gets told what to do by the computer. Contained within is a plunger that opens, and closes to directly control the idle. These need to be cleaned every so often. Gunk builds up on the head of the plunger, and its seat, causing it to stick at times. Today I watched my neighbor smack that area (once with a hammer :violent1 because his car kept dying. After he smacked it, he would restart the engine. It would run until he gave more throttle. His engine has other issues as well I suspect. Anyways...instead of smacking it, I suggested he actually clean it. Man.......was it nasty! The whole plunger assembly was as black as its housing. Hardly the original color......it was all gunk.

BTW........Do this on a COOL engine. You're messing with aluminum here. Different densities cool at different rates. So wait until it's completely cool. Best to do it before your first trip of the day. Which is also the best time to check your oil, coolant, and tires.

All you need is the star tool to remove the two screws that hold the IAC to the throttle body. I also use carb. cleaner, and brake cleaner. DO NOT RUN THE CAR! This is a simple cleaning so don't worry. Unplug the IAC. Remove the two screws, and just slide it out.

This is how I cleaned mine:

I first used carb. cleaner sprayed (cautiously so as not to drown any electronics within) only on the spring, the shaft, and the head of the plunger. I then used a toothbrush to scrub the gunk loose. Another blast of cleaner to finish up. I then used brake cleaner to remove the carb. cleaner residue. Also use this cautiously for the same reason.

My neighbor took the assembly apart. WRONG-O !!!!! I would never suggest you do such a thing, and strongly advise against it! The unit controls the position of the plunger by creating either a closed position, or a MEASURED gap. If you remove the shaft....you may totally screw up the original position thus affecting the IAC's ability to properly control the idle. Seriously.......if it's that far gone then it needs to be replaced anyways. You should still follow through with the next step.

You should also remove the housing on the throttle body to clean it as well. No use in only doing a half-assed job. Remove the remaining five torx screws on the top plate (as shown above) to remove the housing. Be careful to not damage the gasket. You WILL be reusing it. Here you can use carb. cleaner to your hearts content. Don't forget to scrub with the toothbrush paying special attention to the seat for the idle plunger. Again, use brake cleaner to remove any residue.

Put it all back together. Remember....these are weak-ass, woosy, should have been tougher, but they're not.....aluminum screws. DO NOT overtighten them. Snug is good. Now you should be able to enjoy a better quality idle. I would suggest you do this BEFORE you use the sealant in the previous post. Just to make this entire task easier. Recheck ALL your screws on the throttle body after you drive it, and had let it cool again. This should all be checked occasionally anyways. Especially the throttle body mounts.

Oh yeah...........get a new toothbrush.

:brushteeth:

[Sir William]

Minuteman, good info overall, but I must recommend that you NOT use carb cleaner and especially not brake cleaner on your throttle body. There is a coating on the inside of the throttle body that can be damaged by both of these cleaners. The coating is on both the throttle blade and the bore of the TB in most cars. Don't despair though, you can get throttle body safe cleaner which will do the job but is formulated to not attack the coating.

The coating is important because it helps maintain a reasonably air-tight seal when the throttle is closed. If air can leak around the blade, then the idle air control circuit will have a tougher time regulating incoming air and you'll run increased risk of running too lean.

[minuteman]

I looked a little into what you said. Seems Ford started it back in '91 I think. They began coating their throttle bores with Teflon. Some use lacquer. Like any cooking utensil that has the same coating....you have to be careful what you use on it. They say cleaning is not usually needed for them. However, it is also reported that the IAC should still be cleaned periodically, and carb cleaner is totally safe for that. I recommend following it up with brake cleaner to remove residue from the carb cleaner. It is recommended to clean the throttle bores with a soap-type cleaner, and a lint-free cloth. NOTHING SHARP, OR HARD IS TO BE USED IF YOU HAVE A COATED THROTTLE BODY!!!

This should only be done with the entire thing removed from the vehicle. Do not soak it, or drown it. There are still sensitive components within the throttle body that can't get wet. You only want to wipe it clean. Not wash it. Use compressed air to dry it off afterwards before remounting it.Proper cleaning sprays are hitting the shelves to clean the throttle (and MAF sensors) finally.

My previous recommendations were only for the idle portion of the throttle body. There is a process of cleaning the IAC without removing it. It calls for using (guess what) carb cleaner sprayed into the idle passages while actuating the valve manually (via external electric actuator) while the engine is running. It still says to avoid overspraying where too much would get into the throttle bore itself. That is the process recommended by Ford. Which sounds kinda bizarre since spraying carb cleaner while the engine is running will still expose the bore to the cleaner regardless of how careful you are because it's entering through the idle passages in the air stream.

That's why I still recommend removing the IAC to clean it. As for the throttle body portion of it.......Ford says not to use carb cleaner on the throttle body........BUT........it's okay to use while the engine is running to clean the IAC. Sounds like they want to sell parts, and rack up maintenance fees. So pay attention to the following:

HERE'S THE END ALL SUGGESTION AS TO WHAT TO USE..

READY ??

THROTTLE BODY CLEANER........ta daaaa!!

Just as Sir William stated.

Regardless of what you use to clean the IAC valve assembly (separately).......use throttle body cleaner for cleaning the throttle portion. Some cans say they work on both (carbs & throttle bodies). Best way is to actually READ THE CAN. It'll say if it can be used for coated throttle bodies. If it doesn't say, then use one that does. Gumout has one.

My car is an '88 so no worries about any coatings there. This seems to have started in '91 by Ford (mostly) to be later adopted by others. Especially (but not exclusively) 2000, and later years. I've often stated that if my car should keel over that I'd go extreme retro on my next one. Totally get away from computers, coatings, and the whole 'Big Brother' invasion from the government. I was getting some really good numbers from my two barrel Carter carb. I would only need to adjust it in the winter, and summer as needed. The meaner the cleaner......the better it ran....woo hoo!!

:icon_thumright:

[minuteman]

About the MAF sensor........

Mine is right out in the middle. Just after the air filter housing. Between that, and the intake hose. Really easy to get to. I just clean it with some isopropyl alcohol on a Q-tip. I've read several other sites that agree with that. A $1 bottle isopropyl alcohol is cheaper than a can of cleaner. Lasts a lot longer too, and most people already have some in their medicine cabinet.

I've been reading lately where people have been having problems with their K&N oil filters gooing up their MAF sensors. A few other sensors too. I came across a site that has a DRY air filter that totally kicks K&N's oil ones in the butt. They have a lifetime warranty along with a lifetime useability. Filters down to 1 micron. You clean it occasionally with soap, and water. They say Simple Green works great on it. Clean it in a bucket.......rinse thoroughly......let dry before you reinstall. No oiling required. One picture shows a guy crushing it in his hand without it causing any damage to the filter. Clean, OIL FREE air. There's one from AEM called a DRYFLOW Air Filter.

Don't know if K&N has one out, but they should.

I'm still debating about modifying my intake. I already changed the tiny, 2" diam. horn shaped inlet with a 4" diam. aluminum flexible tube. I noticed an instant increase in performance with just that slight modification. On the van I had before, I mounted the tubing below the bumper pointing forward. I called it my DIY ram air intake.....lol. It worked great.

[minuteman]

It was a hot one today. Had to do a minor tuneup. I had to go to the 'Zone because Wally doesn't carry my air filter anymore. When my '88 turned 20 I guess it was adios for Wal-Mart. They still list stuff for '89. They do carry the spark plugs still. They don't list it for '88, but the next year up used the same ones. Even their catalogs didn't list '88 anymore.

After I did my plug change I did my little thingy with the timing light, and discovered one of my coilpacks is on its way out. The others were flashing in time with the sound of the motor except the coil that controls my #3, and #6. Right in the middle.



The #3 seemed to be beating 1 for every 2 while #6 was even skipping a few of those. Easy swap out though. Just remove the radiator fan for better accessibility. An angled mirror helps. I like to use the one I hang in the shower. It's about the same size as a mirror for the inside of a locker.

If I'm lucky I'll have an O'Reilly receipt for the same coilpack. Then I can do the swap for free (warranties......gotta love 'em).


This is my engine. 2.8 V6 MultiPort


I did find a problem with my #5 plug wire though. Seemed it was laying against the exhaust manifold because it had a spot where it was missing its insulation almost to the wire's core. Being on the side that is hidden from view I never suspected a problem. I strapped up the slack to keep it away from the motor, and rebuilt the wire by gobbing on some gas & oil resistant silicone to replace what was lost. Good thing it didn't melt all the way to the middle. I'm sure it was arcing with that much insulation gone. They're newer wires. I just bought them last summer. I think that I officially destroyed that warranty since it was more of an operator error.